How To Brace The Ears Of A Young GSD
- Needed:
- (1) Sharp Pair Of Scissors
- (3) Download these Brace Template Sheets
- (1) Bottle Of Hydrogen Peroxide
- (2) Cosmetic Cotton Pads
- (1) Core From Roll Of Toilet Tissue
- (1) Tube of TearMender Contact Cement (available from Walgreens)
- (3) Download these Brace Template Sheets
- Use the templates provided to determine which size of brace is needed. The brace must go down in the ear as far as possible without closing the ear, yet should be approximately ¼" (6,0mm) smaller than each edge of the ear.
- Select by trial and error the proper size of brace template. Use it to cut two (2) braces from a toilet paper roll core.
- Use a cotton pad damp with hydrogen peroxide to clean the inside of the puppy's ears. Allow the ears to dry thoroughly.
- Test-fit each finished brace, and allow yourself some practice without using glue.
- Apply one (1) thin layer of the TearMender cement to the entire outside curved surface of the brace and allow it to dry until it is barely tacky.
- Apply a second coat of the TearMender cement and allow it to dry until it is very tacky.
- Position the puppy and place the brace in his ear. Use your index finger and thumb to massage the ear into the brace. The brace should stay by itself.
- Go ahead and brace each ear so the puppy does not hold his head to one (1) side. The braced ears should look very correct if you have done this correctly.
The braces should stay in place for seven (7) to ten (10) days. Replace them if they fall out. Bracing must be done between the age of twelve (12) weeks and twenty-four (24) weeks or there may be no success.
Contributed by Bob-O
Robert.Forbus@RobertForbus.com -E mail
www.RobertForbus.com -Website
Applying Moleskin to Train Ears
There are almost as many recommendations on how to train ears to stand as there are ideas on what dog food you should use. The important things to remember are these: 1. If the ears do not stand by themselves by about 4 months age, they probably need some help. 2. Different bloodlines, "bone" (size of pup), relative size and set (wide, etc.) of ears, and age will give different results in standing on their own and/or with help. 3. If you wait too long, you will risk failure, but nobody can predict accurately exactly what is too long for your particular pup... better safe than sorry, better early than late. Teething makes the muscles all around the jaw sore, and that includes muscles that are connected to the base of the ears. Don't fall for the "calcium in the diet" old-wives' tale, as there is NO calcium in cartilage, which is what ears are primarily made of (collagen).
Clean the ear well with rubbing alcohol (not much will stick to wax). Use your "Lady Remington" or "Norelco" to shave the long hair from the inner surface. Cut a piece of Dr. Scholl's in a triangular shape (not TOO widely flared at the bottom) that will be a little smaller than the ear, but long enough to come within an inch or so of the tip. Peel off adhesive backing, press into position, and hold and firmly press to surface of ear in a concave position (like a shell) until you think every part has been pressed well against the clean skin. I also use a drop or two of super-glue to make sure the pointed tip of the moleskin triangle is adhered well and, just above that, to glue the ear flap together to keep it from opening for a day or more... so it isn't a wide, flat area above the moleskin. That will loosen up in a few days, but it helps while it is there. Distract the pup with walks, running, play, etc. so it gets used to the funny feeling in the ear. You may have to redo it a few times, depending on whether the pup plays rough with kennel mates, scratches the ears, etc.
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